Among nature's greatest miracles are flower bulbs. They go into the ground as crusty brown bulbs, and over the course of four to five months burst through the soil and become beautiful blooming flowers. And who doesn’t love to see daffodils or tulips and other flower bulbs in their full blooming glory? For many of us, it’s the first sign that spring has finally arrived.

Tulips, crocus and daffodils are the traditional standby bulbs. But for those that like the unusual, there are many spectacular varieties to choose from. They can be layered in containers or in your flower bed so that the colors just keep popping up. It’s best to consider how many layers (or rows) you want to plant and work from low bulbs in the front of your planting bed (or outside edge of container) and then gradually increase the height towards the back of the bed (or inside of the container).

The lowest growing bulbs are crocus, which are also the earliest blooming. Other great border bulbs that stay in the 6-8" inch range include anemone, chionodoxa, and puschkinia. In the middle of your flower bed or containers consider using amaryllis, babiana, f reesia, leucojum, muscari, ranunculus, scilla, sparaxis and watsonia. For the back of the bed or middle of your containers plant allium, daffodil, Dutch iris, hyacinth, lycoris, narcissus, or tulips to complete your layered design.

Three bulbs--crocus, hyacinth and tulips--need to be chilled for 4-6 weeks prior to planting in order to replicate their natural native growing environment. Simply place them in a paper bag in the back of your refrigerator and do not remove until your holes are dug and you are ready to plant. Drop them into their holes and cover them immediately.

Two spring blooming bulbs that perform better on their own are bearded Iris and amaryllis bulbs. Bearded Iris reproduce themselves and spread out over time so give them lots of room. The giant Dutch amaryllis perform better forced indoors in containers where their beauty can be enjoyed without venturing outside.

Lilies, narcissus and hyacinths need to be planted in the fall as well. Don't forget that hyacinths and Oriental lilies are fragrant. Plant them where your nose as well as eyes can appreciate their beauty.

And last but not least, fall is the time to plant garlic bulbs, onion sets, and seed potatoes. Planning for a summer garlic harvest requires putting the bulbs in the ground in the fall. For a mild flavor try elephant garlic. The bulbs are larger but just as easy to grow as regular garlic.

Don't be disappointed when your neighbors have daffodils and crocus popping up in the yard next spring and you have bare ground. Plan and plant ahead! Choose your bulbs now and plant in the fall.

There is nothing so peaceful as the stillness of water. A water garden can be as simple as one pot filled with water and a few water plants, or a small bubbling fountain with room for a few floating plants placed in a quiet corner of your garden next to your favorite chair. It can be as elaborate as a large pond with koi, frogs, and other of nature's creatures. What do they all have in common? Peaceful serenity and quiet beauty.

Although water features and ponds need little routine maintenance, there are a few late summer/early fall tasks that are essential if you want to keep your plants and fish in good condition.

Protect the pond from the worst of the leaf fall with a fine mesh net. Anchor it just above the surface of the pond. This is not practical for a large pond, but it is useful for a small one. Remove the leaves regularly, and eventually take the netting off. If you are not able to cover your pond with a net, or don't like the appearance of one, use a fish net or rake to remove leaves regularly - not only from surface, but also from below the surface as well. Too many leaves in the water can pollute the pond, which can harm both plants and fish.

Submerged oxygenating plants and rampant growers will eventually clog the pond unless you net or rake them out periodically. This is a good time to thin them simply by raking out the excess. Trim back dead or dying plants from around the edge of the pond, especially where the vegetation is likely to fall into the water.

To divide overgrown waterplants, first remove the plants from their containers. It may be necessary to cut some roots to do so. Some plants can simply be pulled apart by hand, but others will have such a tight mass of entangled roots that you need to chop them into smaller pieces with a spade.

Discard any pieces you don't want for replanting, then pot up the others in planting baskets. Cover the top of the baskets with gravel to prevent soil disturbance.

If you have non-hardy plants in or around your pond, when temperatures get too low for then, either bring them inside for the winter or discard them and replace them next year.

If you've been feeding your pond fish regularly continue doing so into the fall. When water temperatures fall to 60 degrees or lower, change to a fall fish food that is easier to digest. Stop feeding them at all once the water temperature drops below 50 degrees.

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How deep should I plant my new plants?

Answer:

Most plants will benefit from being planted with the top of the root ball at the existing soil level--not the top of the container it came from.

If a plant is installed too high, it will dry out faster, scalding the top of the root ball and stressing the plant out to the point of requiring therapy and potentially expensive medication. Just think how you would feel if the top of your feet were scalded--and you'll understand how important this is.

On the other hand, installing a plant too deep can slowly rot the roots and eventually kill the plant. Most plants that are planted too deep will have a dark soil ring stain around the base of the trunk or crown of the plant. The roots will also emit a most malodorous aroma that no amount of antiperspirant can remedy. It's what the plant would call "payback" for planting it too deep.